Zach's Bee Photos [(c) Zachary Huang], for <a href=http://www.beetography.com>Prints</a>

Moving Bees


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	Gallery: Zach's Bee Photos [(c) Zachary Huang], for Prints Album: Beekeeping


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Moving bees: (photo by Bartek Majewski)
Step 1: seal the hole in the inner cover with screen in case workers come out there. For long distance travel (longer than 5 hour drive, during summer), you may want to replace the whole lid with a screen for better ventilation. Bees can overheat and die when excited during the move.

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Moving bees: (photo by Bartek Majewski)
Step 2: Screen the entrance with a hardware clothe (must be smaller than 8 mesh), so bees can still ventilate but not escape. Best to use a staple gun for this purpose. The screen shown here is not perfect: it is better that the screen be the exact length as the hive width so no wrapping around is needed, which can creat leaking spaces (see the grass here?).
Step 3: to make sure the hivebodies do not shift during travel, you can use the hive staples to fix the two hivebodies together. Again, this is usually done on the side.

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Moving bees: (photo by Bartek Majewski)
Step 4: Use tie downs to tie each hive together
Step 5: Load onto the truck
Step 6: Also use tiedown to keep the hives from moving on the truck.

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Moving bees: (photo by Bartek Majewski)
Step 7: Upon arrival, open the screen to let bees free. Make sure you have a veil! Bees are usually angry after a ride. You would too if you just had a ride with 40,000 of your sisters in a dark, enclosed box :)

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All done! The hive is now in business. If the move is >3 miles away, you do not lose any bees. If <1 mile, many of the foragers will return to the old site, trying to find a hive in the old location...

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	Gallery: Zach's Bee Photos [(c) Zachary Huang], for Prints Album: Beekeeping